Friday, April 29, 2011

The Departure Has Been Lifted!

That about sums it up. On 28 April, Meg got the word that the departure had been lifted. She got booked on the first available flight (2 May) and should be returning home on 3 May. It's about stinkin' time!

I know she'd rather be on the plane already, but I'm kinda glad she isn't. While the house hasn't reverted to full on bachelor-pad mode, it.. ah.. requires some work.  Thankfully I have a 3 day weekend to take care of that! Needless to say though, we're all pretty glad to hear the news and the confirmed departure has lifted all our spirits.

If you're in DC: get your visits and phone calls in. Your short term lease is up. The repo-man is coming and I'm taking her back.

Monday, April 25, 2011

Sunrise Easter Service at the Arlington National Cemetery

Years ago when I was living in the DC area I read about the annual sunrise service held on Easter at the Arlington National Cemetery Amphitheater. I went alone and discovered a little known gem this city has to offer. This year I found myself in the area for Easter again. At 5:30 this morning I headed back to the Cemetery in the pre-dawn hours for a quiet spiritual morning.

American Flags hanging in arches of amphitheater

Leaving my car in the parking garage I joined the flow of people moving toward the visitor's center in silence. We boarded the shuttle buses and wound our way along the network of roads heading toward the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the amphitheater behind it. We filed into our seats, marble benches on gradually sloping tiers, and listened to the Navy Choir and Army Band warming up as the sun climbed higher in the east behind the amphitheater.

Pre-Dawn Amphitheater

Sunrise over the amphitheater

The music was beautiful, both man made and Nature's work. Between readings and performances the birds swooped from one tree to the next filling the mild morning air with their own songs. The final piece the choir performed was the "Hallelujah Chorus" from Handel's Messiah. We were left on our feet with goose bumps as the choir and chaplains filed off stage.

Circle of American Flags

I took the slow walk back toward the visitor's center through the cemetery. Spring time in Washington is lovely.

Tulips & Violets

Cherry Tree in the cemetery

Archway with flag

After returning home I joined some friends for a paddleboat ride around the Tidal Basin. The weather was gorgeous.

Meg's ride on the paddleboat

Meg paddle boat

Saturday, April 23, 2011

Egypt and Italy.. a Pile of Catchup!

It's been so long since I last wrote something here, where do I even begin?

Let's start with Egypt:
Egypt seems to be calming down, but it's not the old Egypt and still has its moments of instability. Strikes right now are keeping people from taking the trains to Luxor and there was a protest outside of the U.S. Embassy on Thursday (though it was only a couple dozen people).  Overall, living life here is fine. I'm able to get about and do the things I want to do, including running on a regular basis. However, because the security services are still significantly degraded we are required to travel in pairs. Also, the Embassy remains under an ordered departure, so Meg is left in Virginia. We are always hopeful it will be lifted shortly, but the government is a bureaucracy and the situation in Egypt is fluid.  

Monday is Sham El Nessim - Egypt's Spring Festival that apparently has been celebrated for over 4,000 years. So between the school spring break, Easter weekend, and the Sham El Nessim, there are very few expats around this weekend. But a couple of runners are still around and the weather has been AWESOME (65ºF Low - 82ºF High) so we're still enjoying some nice runs in the desert. 

With the ordered departure still in place, Meg is in the U.S. while I'm here in Egypt.  I think we are now over 90 days. Also, I haven't had a break from work or Cairo since this whole thing started. I've been getting weekends off for about the last month, but going to Luxor or the Sinai are still not advised. So it was a great relief to get a week off from April 2-10.  Meg & I used it as a chance to get to see each other and get away from our respective jobs.



So, we ventured off for a week in Gressoney, Italy. This involved flying into Milan (see previous post) then a 90 minute transfer to the small town of Gressoney La Trinite. Europe has not received a lot of snow this winter (unlike the United States) but there was still enough left for us to enjoy some turns. I did a little off piste skiing with some more new found friends at the Telemark Ski Company. The off piste was reasonably decent, but it was incredible to feel the snow conditions change as temperatures, sun exposure and slope aspect mixed to create extremely different snow conditions as you moved around the mountain.

IMG_2464
Four Great Things in Italy!


At one point we were not far from this photo coming down a slope and the bowl about 100m away from us (separated by a rock band) let loose in an avalanche! Since we were on the same angle only with more people on it, we hustled off and found a safer slope. Late in the afternoon on our last day, we were doing laps on a certain section of nice, relatively untracked snow. There was a bit of a traverse to get back to the lift. Between our second and third lap, a slide covered our traverse. The slide probably would not have buried you, but it would have knocked you off your feet. As we looked farther, we saw the slide may have pushed you over a cliff into a creek bed. Clearly the warm conditions through the week were making things dangerous so we got back on the piste and decided having a drink was a smarter/better way to spend the afternoon.

IMG_2458

Lots of sun and fun was had. After a week though, we had to leave: Meg to the United States, me back to Egypt. When I got back to Egypt, I found it was actually cooler in Egypt than it was in Milan. What's up with that?

Monday, April 11, 2011

Day One in Milan

I arrived in at the Milan airport with a full day to burn before Seth would arrive from Cairo. After stashing my large backpack in airport baggage storage I headed for the train station and purchased a round trip ticket on the express train into the center of Milan. Before leaving for Italy I had done a bit of research on recommended sights and places of interest as well as printed out a map of the Milan subway system.

The express train was excellent. It was clean and quick, taking just 28 minutes to arrive in the center of town. When I left the station I opted not to go directly on the subway, but to walk along the streets for a bit. I was headed to the Duomo, a massive cathedral that one would think easily spotted from nearby streets.

Duomo from square

The subway map print out ended up being my most valuable tool as I had not purchased a city map. I knew the Duomo had a subway stop on the red line and as I walked along the streets I spotted an entrance to a red line station. From there I began walking from station to station gradually sensing my way toward the cathedral. I wandered off course once or twice (“Woops, that’s a green line station. I must have been meant to take the left bend in the road back there.”) and was about to accept the fact that I might not find this monstrosity of a church even though it was surely just around the bend when I spotted a tall spire between two buildings. I was hot on the trail!

Duomo

There are two main attractions at the Duomo: the interior and the roof. You can access the roof of this cathedral via a narrow twisting staircase of stone, or an elevator. I opted for the manual approach. Once on the roof you are surrounded by buttresses, intricately carved spires and stone railings. There are stone staircases built in to the roof, not as an afterthought for they show signs of weathering and wear that indicate many years of use and exposure. Aside from the view I was most impressed by the incredible detail and attention paid to the carvings in every out of the way corner, railing, banister or windowsill on this roof. Based on the level of detail put in to the roof, you can imagine what the interior of the church was like.

Duomo from roof

After leaving the church I headed to a sidewalk café for lunch. I was drawn in to one by an animated server who was doing a fantastic job pulling in people off the street and making conversation. I watched as he essentially started a casual conversation with passersby and then pulled out a chair and invited them to sit, placed a menu in their hands and excused himself, apologizing for the fact that he had to go inside to get his order pad. He was a master. These people may have just finished lunch somewhere else but he was so smooth they were about to eat again. I decided to give him my business as well. It turns out he is Brazilian, but has lived in several different countries, including the U.S. He speaks 5 languages and will be leaving Italy in 3 months to return to Brazil and open his own restaurant with the money he has saved while working around the world.

Duomo roof 2

Duomo roof and Milan skyline CROPPED2

While waiting for my sandwich to arrive I thought I’d order a coffee. I looked over the menu quickly and found an entire page devoted to coffees. When he asked what I would like I ordered a latte.

“Latte?” he asked.
“Yes.”
“Just milk?” he clarified.
“Yes, just milk.” I confirmed, thinking he meant only milk with my espresso.
“Would you like it hot?” he asked. This seemed like an odd question.
“Uh, yes. Hot please.”

A few moments later I was brought a small glass of hot milk. Mental note: “latte” is Italian for milk. If you want an espresso with steamed milk you need to order a “café latte” or a “latte machiatto”. Gotcha. I drank my milk like a good little American.

lion and pigeon

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